07 Filling And Priming
Yep. It’s the part everyone hates. Or at least “I” do. I’m trying some things a little differently this go around. Before I had always used plastic model filler from Hobby Lobby. It’s good stuff, deep red as a liquid, and dries to a dark pink–very much like automotive Bondo. However, it is VERY hard to sand flat. So, I’m using Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler this time completely.As you can see from the picture below, I started out using the natural color–but we found some that was white at Home Depot and I changed to it. It sticks well–IF you use a little water with it. I found it to work best at about peanut-butter-level spreadability–too much water turned it runny, and defeated the purpose.


I didn’t mess with the wood grain on the fins yet. My plan was to hit it with a quick primer coat first. Reason being, once there’s primer on the project all the little holes and grains and whatnot become very visible. One can spend all day trying to fill everything in, only to have to do it again after the first primer. So, my point is: I don’t stress over filling stuff in before the first primer coat.
So, I started to mask it off. You’ll notice that I’m painting the nose cone as a separate piece. This is simply because I haven’t figured out exactly how I’m going to joint the shock cord to it. I want a way to be able to replace the elastic part of the shock cord (if needs be), which will be impossible way up inside the body tube…But I have some ideas. So I haven’t joined the cone to the top of the upper air frame yet. Actually, it’s easier to handle this way, too, for sanding and sealing purposes.
Anyway, a ring of blue release tape goes around the unpainted areas.

Now some Walmart or Target bags (I forget which). I just open them and wrap the bags around the tape rings, and attach them with some more tape. I twist up, tape, and cut off the excess just to get it out of the way.

A paper towel tube gets turned into a paint wand, and off we go to the driveway for priming.

My first coat is actually NOT primer, but flat white Krylon. It isn’t easy to sand, but it sticks REALLY well. Subsequent coats will be Krylon White Primer. Pay the extra dollar to get Krylon–you’ll thank yourself. It is high-build, and easy to sand. Oh, and pay close attention to brand names. If you start with Krylon, then STICK with Krylon. Different brands of paint react with one another in unpredictable ways. Wouldn’t it be great to have a finished project turn brown and crinklely after a few weeks?
As I said, after the first coat, all the little problems popped right out. I grabbed the filler again, and started in. I spread it pretty thick on the fins. The temptation here is to skimp so you’ll have less to sand off–but, in reality, sanding ONE time is easier than doing it over three times because you keep missing stuff.

Here’s a point of interest. I spooged a lot of filler on the bottom. I want it to be flat. So after it dried, I sanded it with a sanding sponge from Home Depot. A sanding sponge (or whatever they’re called) is a sponge-sized piece of foam, covered in sand paper. Works great–since there’s nice big flat sides.


Ok. That’s the current status. I have to order two things before I next post. I want a motor retention clip and rail buttons before I start my final paint. I also have to get the shock cord situation figured out. Anyway, until then.
See you, Space Cowboy.
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